Sunday 13 July 2008

Yellowstone

Gosh, here we are - after nearly thirteen months the end of our scheduled USA leg has arrived.

Before we deal with this sad event, it's time for probably the biggest update of our trip.
I'd suggest a beer, or something stronger. Perhaps a tranquilliser.

I know it's late, but we've had a devil of a time with the 'net. It was working so I could upload the photos, but then it stopped so I couldn't add the text. The next campground didn't have it. So here we are.

Day 1 - Tetonia to Yellowstone
Man, I love animals as much as the next guy, but here's a tip - if you want to look at the buffalo/elk/cat/dog/fatty then PULL THE FUCK OVER and let everyone else get past you.

It is at this point that we encounter the most annoying American of all - the Weekend Nature Warrior. These people come to nature (I assume for the peace and quiet) but don't leave their big-city rudeness and selfishness behind.

It took us ages to get to the campground, by which time we were exhausted. So we rested, and didn't do anything. Oops.


Day 2 - West Thumb, Mud Volcano, Sulphur Cauldron
West Thumb is the smallest geyser basin at Yellowstone, but was our first taste of the smells, sounds and sights of Yellowstone.

The whole park is sitting on top of a giant magma chamber, and is the result of a series of gigantic explosions long ago, before God created the world in seven days.

Given it's nice and active, there's plenty of hot, stinky sulphur dioxide floating around. Nothing quite like a steamy hot cloud of rotten egg, honestly. Water gets heated up, and forces its way to the surface, forming pools and such all over the place, some heated to boiling point.

It's weird to see stuff that looks like a natural spa bath.


Sometimes mud gets forced out of the ground as well - over time building a volcano-like structure.


This pool looks kind of inviting right? Sadly if you were to take a dip in here you'd most likely end up in the burns unit of the nearest hospital. According to the brochures, only the hottest pools have no bacteria (or at least very few) living in them.


This particular pond is actually in Yellowstone Lake, and is famous for fishermen allegedly being able to catch a trout, and dip the unfortunate creature into the chimney and boil it for eatin'.



As the water cools a little, different types of bacteria grow. The next hottest pools have yellow or red bacteria mats growing in them. In this flow from the bubbling pond towards the lake, red bacteria have colonised it.

In this picture you can see the lovely searing hot blue water, the mineral deposits at the edge, and the red bacteria living in the cooler water.


It really was tempting to take a little dip, good thing there's warning signs everywhere telling me not to!


As you can see, the landscape is unusual, with pools of water rising seemingly out of nowhere.

It would all be very pleasant, except for the stink, and the crowds of people all desperate to see something.


The elk aren't forbidden to walk on the ground though. Ahh boardwalks, and tourists. Wait a minute though, I'm a tourist, and *I* am on the boardwalk. The shame.


It looks tranquil, but just out of the frame I'm probably elbowing someone out of the way.

Next up was the Sulphur Cauldron. It's one of the most acidic (and stinky) places in the park. Alas, you're not allowed to go very closed, so no pictures. Take it from me, it's bleak, stinky and ... well stinky. Nearly as stinky as Mr. and Mrs. Bundi.

The mud volcano used to be an .. err.. mud volcano, until the side blew out of it. There were lots of cool features in the area, including this particular pool bubbling and spurting away.


Ahh cracked earth as art.

Day 3 - Avalanche Peak
We signed up for a ranger-guided hike. Man am I glad we did, it really was one of the highlights of our trip (at least for me!). I apologise if the pictures (not if, that) might be out of order a bit. Logic is not welcome here.

We started super-early at 8am, at around 8000 feet. This is KIND of at the bottom. You will note please, that there is snow. Lots of it.

Did I mention snow?


These may look like giant turds, but they are not!! They are the tunnel diggings of a burrowing creature (I've forgotten which one, which is kind of lame) that digs for roots during the winter, under the snow. It has to put the dirt somewhere, so it digs another tunnel in the snow for it.


As the snow melts, its diggings become exposed. Well we thought it was interesting anyway....


It was just beautiful - the meadows were starting to bloom, and aside from the 11 of us, there wasn't another soul in sight!



The hills were alive, with the sound of music. Well not quite, but alive with all manner of flowers.


As we neared the summit, we could see into the backcountry - there were three still frozen lakes (ok this is only one, but we couldn't get pictures of the others).


On the rocks, grow four different kinds of lichen - green, black, grey and orange. They withstand the horrible conditions and somehow survive.


You can see "Pyramid Peak" on the right hand side. Not surprisingly, named because it looks very much like a pyramid.


Ooh, nearly at the top, which is over 10,000ft. Man was it windy.

A view nearly from the top.


People, this is what we should strive to be like when we're about 10,000 years old. Ranger Harlan was fit, funny... and by the looks of things quite famous. If you're bored, you should Google "Harlan Kredit" - he's won just a few awards....


Man did we have fun skating around on the snow banks. All in all, an awesome day.


Day 4 - Norris Geyser Basin
Ok this is a bit lame - I'm just going to let you look at the pictures. If you're interested in what any particular ones are, just ask.

Day 5 - Old Faithful Area
Ahh Old Faithful, possibly the park's most famous feature.

This is NOT Old Faithful though, and nor are the next few images.


But THIS is Old Faithful. The sky went from black to kind of white during the eruption, so the pics didn't turn out QUITE how we wanted them. Following on from these, some more out of order pics, and then another couple of the geyser. Still awake?


Day 6 -
Beaver Ponds Loop
A delightful hike. I'll let the (bad) pictures of the bear cub we encountered speak for themselves. By the way my 70-300 is completely r00ted. Thanks, Andrew. You spineless english fuckwit!

Wait that's not a bear!

Day 7 - Pelican Valley
Our nearly last day. More very pleasant hiking. Hello Mr. Bison!


Hello Bear Paw Print!

Hello Kat!

Hello Cousin to Ben's Squirrel!


I apologise for the incredibly long and wordless post. Or perhaps it's better that way. Next update when we can, will be from San Francisco. Don't hold ones breath though!

1 comment:

Euan said...

Bison and baby bears.....so what?

Absolutely amazing, bet the photos are no match for the memories and experience, though.

Better draft up a few stories and get ready for telling them over and over upon your return and for many years to come....